Rosemarie and Nick had a short break this year already with four days in Wiltshire, when we were very lucky with the weather, but then the rest of their holiday plans ( like those of everybody else ) were wrecked by covid-19 and the subsequent lockdown. Not that they’re complaining – a friend of theirs lost his wife through covid in March. The disease must be taken seriously and very many families have lost multiple loved ones.
However they were ( again like everyone else ) finding the lockdown tedious and frustrating, so as soon as the relaxation started and hotels started re-opening Nick started looking for accomodation in Wales. The news was that the hotels would open from the 1st August. As soon as the Llywodraeth Cymru announced this officially, Nick rushed to the computer and booked four nights at Gwesty Portmeirion, getting a good deal and a room from the 3rd, the first night the hotel actually opened.
The restaurant was superb and the social distancing imaginative, effective and practical, though the one-way circulation did take you out of the French windows and round through the garden to get back in by the front door. The staff all wore masks and all the guests were very disciplined in respecting social distancing. The only small disadvantage was that with reduced seating and tables, the meal times had to be carefully fitted in over a long timeframe. Room service was suspended during a guest’s stay, but then you have to tidy up for yourself and make your own beds at home – so not a big deal!
Because Portmeirion is built on a peninsula projecting into an estuary and a couple of miles from the mountains, the rain – and there was quite a lot – tends to miss it when the wind comes in from the west. This meant they were able to enjoy some lovely woodland walks, sheltered from the winds. These became quite powerful however, when they emerged at one point onto a cliff top location with a spectacular view.
Sadly the heritage railways were not running and the Cambrian Coast Line was on a very reduced timetable for key workers only. Nevertheless they went out by car to Portmadoc where they managed to combine walking, birdwatching and shopping and, on another occasion, a car trip to Criccieth, Pwllheli and Tremadoc and some more fine blustery walks along the coast and the beaches.
One point did strike Nick since his last visit to Wales 5 or 6 years ago – Welsh speakers seem to have lost their inhibitions about speaking Welsh in public and in the street and there was a general air of greater confidence and activity, even though there were hardly any tourists around. He was also pleased that, for a change, people now didn’t mind carrying on a conversation in Welsh – instead of switching straight into English as in the past. One thing that was also striking was the number of flyposted stickers calling for independence, and a larger number of flags than usual.
On the downside, however, was the shortage of EV charging points in North Wales and this is something which the Tourist Board, businesses and local authorities need to address. At Portmeirion there were 2 sockets on one column ( each delivering 6.6kW ) and they never had a problem using them, although there were at least 5 electric cars on site. However, during their stay, work was going on to instal another 5 columns (10 sockets).
Just the same, from Porthmadoc going south, there is no charger at all until Llanfair Caereinion 70 miles away and no rapid charger until the M54 services at Telford about 85 miles away. In addition Nick learned the hard way in England just how unreliable mobile phone apps are – at least Android apps. Bring back the RFID swipe cards, he says! The fact is that the apps often have a problem connecting to the charger and also in reading QR codes.
And just to reinforce that point Battery EV car registrations in July have now achieved a market share of 5%. Responsible local authorities need to recognise that. At the moment they are trying to ignore the fact that both transport technology and consumer choice is changing – and changing fast.
Still, Rosemarie and Nick enjoyed the short holiday very much and both felt much better for having got away for a break!